All You Need To Know About Bandhani The vibrant hues of Rajasthan, folk dancers spinning in their dazzling ghagras and towering turbans are the images that come to mind when the term BANHDANI is uttered; it is THAT emblematic of the desert state’s heritage. Bandhani appears to be more than just an art form or a cloth; it appears to be an entire emotion, replete with the most vibrant hues of our diverse culture. Bandhej is popular in Gujarat and parts of Uttar Pradesh, in addition to being one of the most dazzling jewels in the crown of Rajasthani handicrafts.
So what exactly is Bandhani or Bandhej?
‘Bandhani/ Bandhni is derived from the Hindi/ Sanskrit terms ‘Bandhna’ and ‘Bandha,’ which both imply ‘tying’ or ‘to knot.’ Bandhej is simply a different spelling of the same word. Bandhani is a traditional Indian ‘tie and dye’ art (a resist-dyeing process that uses impermeable threads for tying) that is used to create beautiful, delicate patterns on fabrics.’
History of Bandhani
Bandhej is the oldest known tie-and-die technique, having been discovered over 5000 years ago. According to what we know, the first Bandhani saree was worn on the occasion of a royal marriage under Bana Bhatt’s Harshacharita. At reality, Bandhej evidence has been discovered in the Ajanta caves. The Gujarati Khatri community pioneered Bandhani work in India. Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jamnagar in Rajasthan are well-known locations for producing world-class Bandhej odhnis, sarees, and turbans, as are towns in Gujarat such as Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jamnagar. It is an ancient type of art that has not only endured but also increased in strength over time.
The Technique
The fabric is first tied in numerous designs and patterns using impermeable thread before being dyed with gorgeous solid colours. When these tied fabrics are dyed, the tied area does not absorb the colour and remains white or the same colour as the cloth. It is then dried outside in the open air. The amount of time it takes for the fabric to dye is determined on the weather. During the rainy season, the cloth can take up to two days to dry, however during the summer, the complete procedure takes only 4-5 hours. The fabric, in addition to the weather, has an essential role in dyeing.
Bandhani sarees were traditionally produced entirely of cotton and muslin cloth, but with the passage of time and the necessity for innovation, this has changed, Bandhani prints have also been made on georgette, silk, cotton-silk, viscose, and other cotton variants. Because each fabric has its own characteristics, the effect of this art differs depending on the type of cloth utilised.
The Colours of Bandhani
Because Bandhani is such a vibrant skill, it is inextricably linked to good fortune. Dark, deep tones are used, however it usually starts with milder colours. Yellow is the first hue used, followed by reds, maroon, ochre, orange, indigo blues, turquoise blue, and deep greens for more dyeing and re-dying. Other colours, such as purple, mustard yellow, beige, pink, and even black, are now included in the Bandhani palette.
Patterns of Bandhani
Ek Dali or Bundi refers to a single Bandhani dot, Chaubundi refers to four dots, and Satbundi refers to seven dots. Boond refers to small dots with darker centres, while Kodi refers to tear-drop shaped dots. The cluster design we see is referred to as Trikunti, while groups of four are referred to as Chaubasi, and seven are referred to as Satbandi. Repeating Bandhani dots and patterns can result in a variety of intricate designs. Leaves, flowers, trees, and even human figurines are among them. Other well-known Bandhani patterns are Dungar Shahi (mountain pattern), Laddu Jalebi (Indian sweetmeats), and Leheriya (waves).
Types of Bandhani Sarees
While Bandhani fabric is commonly used to make jackets, dupattas, chaniya cholis, turbans, and purses, the saree remains the most popular Bandhani ensemble. When mothers give their daughters bandhani sarees for their weddings, it is considered auspicious. In reality, the bride’s mother frequently dresses in the traditional Bandhej saree for the wedding ceremony.
Jhankaar Bandhani – This form of Bandhani has exceedingly fine patterns and is very colourful and vivid. Unlike other Bandhani types, Jhankaar Bandhani lacks light or white-colored dots. An all-green Jhankaar Bandhani, for example, will feature red or maroon dots.
BorJaal – This form of Bandhej is incredibly complicated and includes full jal work of Bandhani all over it. It is primarily used for wedding celebrations. In Marwari communities, it is immensely popular. The intricate and fascinating interplay of colours, patterns, and dots on BorJaal Bandhani Sarees creates an astonishing maze design on the fabric. They come in a variety of colours and can even be created out of georgettes.
Colour Discharge Bandhani – Bandhani is a technique that includes layering darker hues over lighter ones. In the colour discharge technique, however, the opposite is true, and lighter colours can be seen over darker coloured dot patterns. Deep red dots on a pale yellow background, for example, can be found in such a Bandhej.
The Banarasi Bandhani saree, which is essentially a Bandhani saree with a Banarasi brocade border, is another Bandhej saree innovation. It’s typically created out of pure, high-quality georgette fabric with brocade and Banarasi weave borders. The bandhani work on these high-end sarees is frequently exquisite, and it is commonly included in the traditional bridal trousseau.